personal finance
Military Death Benefits – Beyond SGLI
It is a little morbid to think about, but we’re all going to die. This means we all need to plan for it.
Everyone knows about life insurance, but what else does your family get if you die while in the military? Without knowing the answer to this question, it is impossible to execute a complete plan in the event of your death.
Here is a quick summary of the major benefits your family would receive if you died while in the military:
Servicemember’s Group Life Insurance (SGLI) – Most know this as the military life insurance policy. It pays up to $400,000, although you can reduce this amount if you want.
Death Gratuity – This is a tax free $100,000 payment that does to the beneficiary of your choice.
Casualty Assistance Officer (CAO) – Your next of kin gets assigned a CAO to help them apply for benefits.
Dependency and Indemnity Compensation (DIC) – This pays a monthly, tax free allowance of $1,283.11 to the spouse and an additional $317.87 per child under age 18. If you have at least one child, you get another $270 per month for two years. The rates are adjusted annually for inflation. In addition, depending on their income, some surviving parents could receive this.
Survivor Benefit Program (SBP) – The SBP pays a monthly benefit equal to 55% of the service member’s retirement pay if they were retired at 100% disability at the time of their death. It is reduced dollar-for-dollar by the amount of DIC the spouse receives.
Burial Benefits – You’d get some burial expenses and entitlements from the VA.
Fry Scholarship – The Marine Gunnery Sergeant John David Fry Scholarship provides Post-9/11 GI Bill benefits to the children and surviving spouses of Servicemembers who died in the line of duty while on active duty after September 10, 2001. Eligible beneficiaries attending school may receive up to 36 months of benefits at the 100% level.
Survivors’ and Dependents’ Educational Assistance (DEA) – The DEA Program offers education and training opportunities to eligible dependents of Veterans who are permanently and totally disabled due to a service-related condition or of Veterans who died while on active duty or as a result of a service-related condition.
Other Scholarships – Check the Fisher House Foundation’s scholarship search tool.
Commissary and Exchange Shopping Privileges – These continue.
VA Home Loans – Eligibility for these remains.
TRICARE – Your family can continue to use Tricare as usual for three years. After three years, coverage for children doesn’t change—they are covered as “active duty family members” until they age out of TRICARE or lose eligibility for other reasons. Coverage for surviving spouses changes to that of a retired family member.
As you can see, there are quite a lot of death benefits besides SGLI. Make sure take these into account when figuring out your estate plan.
How to Buy Life Insurance When You’re in the Military
Shopping for life insurance can be time consuming and difficult, but I’m going to make it easy for you. Read on to find out how much life insurance you need and figure out the best way to get it.
Do You Need Life Insurance?
The purpose of life insurance is simple. If you die, it protects those who are reliant on your income.
If you have anyone who is financially dependent on you, you need life insurance. If you don’t, you don’t need it. It’s that simple:
- Married with kids – You probably need it unless you have a sizable net worth.
- No kids but your spouse doesn’t work – You probably need it.
- No kids and your spouse works – If their income is enough for them to live on, you don’t need it. If it is not enough to live on, you need it.
- Single with no dependents – You don’t need it.
- Kids do not need life insurance.
This handles most scenarios. If you have some other situation, I’ll go back to the beginning…
If you die, would anyone suffer financially? If the answer is yes, you need life insurance. If the answer is no, you don’t.
What Type of Life Insurance Do You Need?
There are two types – term and permanent/cash-value. Only buy term. Never buy permanent/cash-value. No matter who tries to sell it to you or how convincing they are.
ONLY…BUY…TERM.
If you want to know why, read this article.
How Much Life Insurance Do You Need?
There are a plethora of online calculators set up to answer this question. The best one I’ve found is here. Use the calculator…that’s how much life insurance you need.
If you are averse to complicated calculators, a common rule is to purchase 7-10 times your annual income. Again, that is a rule of thumb that is not taking into account your individual life situation. If you are allergic to online calculators, though, using this rule of thumb will ensure that your family is not destitute if you die.
Where Should You Get Your Life Insurance?
You can shop around on different websites, like Term4Sale.com. But I wouldn’t do that if I was you.
Most companies that sell life insurance do not cater to the military. Their policies will have all sorts of restrictions that you and I just can’t be bothered with, like war clauses that would not pay out in the event of an act of war. (Note that Andy Borgia from DI4MDs.com contacted me after publication and says this is no longer the case. War is covered but there is a 2 year exclusion for suicide.) For this reason, I’d only get my insurance in one of four places:
- AAFMAA
- Navy Mutual Aid Association – You don’t have to be in the Navy to get insurance from them.
- Servicemembers Group Life Insurance (SGLI) – This is the life insurance you can sign up for via your military paycheck.
- USAA
There may be other military-focused insurers, and if you want to share them in the comments feel free, but these are my go-to sources.
What Combination of the Above Options Should I Get?
Getting SGLI isn’t necessarily the cheapest option. The above companies are well-versed in how you can most efficiently combine their products with SGLI to maximize the amount of life insurance you can get for your money.
Contact the three companies above. Spend some time listening to their opinions on how to best address your situation. Only buy term insurance. Then buy what seems best for you.
The Bottom Line
- Decide if you need life insurance.
- Decide how much you need.
- Buy term insurance only.
- Buy only from these sources – AAFMAA, Navy Mutual Aid Association, SGLI, or USAA.
Brief Disability Insurance Update and Finance Friday Articles
Here’s a brief message update from Lawrence Keller, one of the experts of disability insurance for military physicians at Physician Financial Services:
Joel-
Hope all is well.
I wanted to let you know that MassMutual recently announced a 25% discount for Active Duty Military Physicians.
This discount is permanent and also applies to all increases made to one’s coverage in the future.
I’ve also been using a two policy approach for Military Physicians that will ultimately allow them to reach up to $20,000 month, regardless of their health, as their incomes rise. I have received very favorable feedback on this strategy, which even works for Military Residents/Fellows (who are typically limited to only $2,000 month to start).
If you have any questions or require additional information, feel free to call.
Lawrence B. Keller, CFP®, CLU®, ChFC®, RHU®, LUTCF
Phone: (516) 677-6211
Fax: (516) 269-7700
Toll- Free: (800) 481-6447
250 Crossways Park Drive, Woodbury, NY 11797
https://www.physicianfinancialservices.com/
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Terrance Odean is a professor of finance at UC Berkeley. His Vimeo videos are from an online personal finance course he taught titled “Making Smart Financial Decisions.” I’ve watched 15 or so of them, and they are about 10 minutes long, high quality, and educational. If you are looking for a financial education check them out here:
https://vimeo.com/terranceodean
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Throwback Thursday Classic Post – Step 3 to Crush the Thrift Savings Plan – Asset Allocation
The Thrift Savings Plan (TSP) is the military’s retirement account. Learning how to maximize its utility should be high on your financial priority list. At MCCareer.org, I’m going to create a guide that will show you how to crush it with the TSP. We already showed you step 1 and step 2 in that guide. Here’s step 3…
The 3rd Step to Crush the TSP – Asset Allocation
You’ve probably heard that you shouldn’t put all of your eggs in one basket. That is what asset allocation is all about…making sure your eggs are in multiple baskets.
Asset allocation can be complex. There are entire books written about nothing but asset allocation, like The Intelligent Asset Allocator: How to Build Your Portfolio to Maximize Returns and Minimize Risk
What Assets are Available in the TSP?
There are only five assets available:
- G Fund – US government bonds specially issued to the TSP
- F Fund – US government, corporate, and mortgage-backed bonds
- C Fund – stocks of large and medium-sized US companies
- S Fund – stocks of small to medium-sized US companies (not included in the C Fund)
- I Fund – international stocks of more than 20 developed countries
What is not available? There are a few major asset classes unavailable. You cannot invest in real estate or international bonds. International emerging markets may be added to the I Fund is the TSP board can ever sort out the politics. If you want exposure to any of these asset classes right now, you’ll have to get them in your other investment accounts, like your IRA or taxable account.
How Do I Pick My Asset Allocation?
If in step 2 you decided to use L Funds, you don’t need to pick an asset allocation for your TSP. The L Fund takes care of it for you.
If you are not going to use L Funds, one way to decide on an asset allocation is to take this Vanguard survey. At the top of the page it will give you a suggested allocation, such as 80% stocks and 20% bonds.
Another way is to borrow from trusted investment experts. Here are a few opinions.
- 20-30s – bonds 10-25%, stocks 75-90%
- 40-50s – bonds 25-35%, stocks 65-75%
- 60s – bonds 35-55%, stocks 45-65%
- 70s – bonds 50-65%, stocks 35-50%
- 80s+ – bonds 60-80%, stocks 20-40%
- 20-30s – bonds 0%, stocks 100%
- 40s – bonds 0-10%, stocks 90-100%
- 50s – bonds 15-25%, stocks 75-85%
- 60s – bonds 20-30%, stocks 70-80%
- 70s – bonds 40-60%, stocks 40-60%
- 80s+ – bonds 50-70%, stocks 30-50%
Mr. Ellis is a little more aggressive than Mr. Malkiel because he recommends a higher allocation of stocks.
There are other ways to come up with a reasonable asset allocation, such as financial “rules of thumb.” The founder of Vanguard, John Bogle, is famous for creating the “age in bonds” rule of thumb. It says that whatever your age is, that is the percentage of your investments that should be in bonds. The rest should be in stocks.
For example, I’m 44 years old, so his rule would say I should have 44% in bonds and 56% in stocks.
This rule has been criticized as being too conservative, so some have changed it to 110 or 120 minus your age as the percentage you should have in stocks. For example, for me this would mean:
- 110 minus age 44 = 66% in stocks, the rest (34%) in bonds
- 120 minus age 44 = 76% in stocks, the rest (24%) in bonds (this is actually very close to my asset allocation as of 9 AUG 2020, 75% stocks and 25% bonds)
There are certainly other ways to come up with your asset allocation. You could ask a financial advisor. You could read other books. You could read other blog posts, like this one on the Bogleheads Wiki.
What About Other Assets Like Your Pension and Social Security?
This is a tough issue. Some would argue that pensions and social security are income streams and that they should not play into your asset allocation decision. This is what Vanguard argues. Others would argue that they are “bond-like” and should be factored into your asset allocation and counted as a large pile of bonds. Here are a few thoughts on the subject from blogs I follow and trust:
- The Oblivious Investor – How Pensions and Social Security Affect Asset Allocation
- Humble Dollar – A Price on Your Head
The Bottom Line – Asset Allocation
Somehow you have to figure out your desired asset allocation. The info above will hopefully facilitate that. Once you have a target asset allocation, now you have to apply it to the investments available in the TSP. Take the 4th Step…invest.
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Throwback Thursday Classic Post – Step 2 to Crush the TSP – Decide
The Thrift Savings Plan (TSP) is the military’s retirement account. Learning how to maximize its utility should be high on your financial priority list. I’m going to create a guide that will show you how to crush it with the TSP. We already showed you step 1 in that guide. Here’s step 2…
The 2nd Step to Crush the TSP – Decide
If you want to crush it with the TSP, you’ve got some decisions you have to make. You have to decide:
- How much you’re going to invest.
- What investments you’re going to use.
Decide How Much You Are Going to Invest
If you want to crush it, you need to invest as much as you can afford. How much can you contribute? Here is the TSP page that lists the contribution limits.
That page may be confusing, so here is the bottom line:
- You can contribute $19,500 in 2020.
- If you are 50 or older, you can contribute an additional $6,500.
- If you are deployed to a combat zone, you can contribute even more.
- Any matching contributions you get from the DoD due to the Blended Retirement System or BRS (if you’re in it) does not count toward these limits.
How much should you contribute? As much as you can. Period. Even a few hundred dollars is better than nothing.
Decide Which Investments You Are Going to Use
The TSP is pretty simple in this regard. You only really have six options.
The first option is to just let someone else handle this for you by using a Lifecycle fund. According to the TSP:
The L Funds, or “Lifecycle” funds, use professionally determined investment mixes that are tailored to meet investment objectives based on various time horizons. The objective is to strike an optimal balance between the expected risk and return associated with each fund.
Using L Funds is a simple, easy, and effective strategy that is completely fine for most people. If that is how you want to do it, you can just put all your TSP money in the L Fund with the year that is closest to when you want to retire and skip the rest of this blog post. For example, if you want to retire in 2034, you’d invest in the L 2035.
If you are more of a do-it-yourselfer, then you have five other investment options besides using a Lifecycle fund. The five investment options can be compared in this table from the TSP website.
That is really it. You can either use a Lifecycle fund, or one of the five other funds listed in the table.
The Bottom Line – Decisions You Have to Make
Like we said at the beginning, you have to decide:
- How much you’re going to invest. (Hint: as much as you can afford.)
- What investments you’re going to use – Lifecycle vs do-it-yourself with the five other available funds.
If you decided against the Lifecycle funds, the next thing you have to do is determine your asset allocation, which is our next step to crushing it with the TSP.
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Joel Schofer's Career Planning Blog 